Toqueland

The Writing Life: The Down Payment

One Year, 50 Pages.  Why Book Proposals Are Worth the Trouble.

Having just introduced this site in December, on the occasion of the publication of my last book, I've only been able to speak about writing in the past tense.  But this past weekend, as I tweaked a proposal for a new collaboration, I thought it might be interesting to spend a little time in the future tense and share a bit about the great unknown for a writer like myself who primarily makes his living in the book world... the next project.

For about a year now, in addition to gearing up for my own next solo effort (more about that in a few weeks), I've been engaged in an ongoing dialogue with Paul Liebrandt, the wildly talented chef of Corton restaurant in TriBeCa, about writing a book together.  Usually proposals come together much more quickly for me, but this was a unique relationship because unlike the other chefs I've worked with--most of whom I'd known pretty well socially before we became business partners--Paul and I had never met until a mutual friend took me to dinner at Corton for the purpose making a literary match and sending us off down the book path together.  (It also took a while because we connected while I was barreling down the homestretch of penning Knives at Dawn, so meetings were few and far between at the outset.)

 In the Dining Room at Corton with Paul Liebrandt

(photo copyright 2010 by Andrew Friedman)

Following that fateful evening, Paul and I began a series of get-togethers geared toward figuring out what the book might be.  It's one of my favorite parts of my job, for reasons best explained by that classic line from Stephen Sondheim's Sunday in the Park with George:  "White, a blank page or canvas.  His favorite.  So many possibilities."  When you first start brainstorming, there are no boundaries, no rules about where the process might take you. My personal MO is to encourage the chef I'm working with to get all the ideas he wants to examine, all the advice, opinions, and stories he has to offer, on the table and then devise a concept that will serve as the tree from which all those ideas can protrude like so many branches.

We started out by meeting in the food-book section of the Union Square Barnes and Noble, leafing through everything from picture-less memoirs to visually stunning coffee table tomes.  It was a useful crash course in each other's likes and dislikes and a chance for me to begin to understand who Paul was, both as a chef and a person.  Best of all, it was immediately apparent that the guy has the one thing I can't manufacture for a collaborator:  A point of view, and not just about The Food (I cap it like that because that's the way he talks about it--as the focus of some sort of eternal, existential quest) but also about what it takes to succeed in the kitchen; Paul came up working in some of the best kitchens in London (L'Escargot, Marco Pierre White) and those experiences were intensely formative, as was the transformative year he spent working for Pierre Gagnaire in Paris.

We then sat down and engaged in a number of long, Inside the Actor's Studio-type interviews where Paul took me through his life from earliest childhood up through Corton.  It might sound precious or artsy-fartsy, but I approach writing "in voice" the same way certain actors approach their roles--total immersion.  My goal is to get to a point where I can sit down and get lost in the character of the chef, writing the way he or she might were they sitting at the computer.  (Despite all the effort that goes into it, it's not always easy to get to that place.  For some reason, I find it easiest when I'm closest to being unconscious--either just before turning in at night or--better--immediately after waking in the morning. For better or for worse, my best, longest stretches tend to come during bouts of insomnia.)

After that, periodically, Paul and I would sit down, often in the dining room of Corton at midday (they don't serve lunch) and brainstorm, eventually hitting on the concept and then interviewing further to really drill down into it.  I can't flip all the cards and reveal exactly what that concept is just yet, but it might surprise you to know that although there will be recipes in the book, it is decidedly not a cookbook. 

Food & Wine Magazine’s Best New Chefs 2010

Why The Industry’s “Most Likely to Succeed” List is Even More Historically Significant than You Might Think

 
 Here We Are Now: Entertain Us... Dancing Girls at the BNC Party

(photo copyright by Sylvain Gaboury, FOOD & WINE Magazine)

Food & Wine Magazine staged its 22nd annual Best New Chefs party Tuesday night at the Four Seasons restaurant in midtown Manhattan.  And I do mean staged:  Just before the recitation of the names (you can’t really call it an announcement as the news broke online earlier in the day), dancing girls decked out in hot pants, top hats, and feathered wings—getups worthy of a Bob Fosse fever dream—danced along the brink of the shallow fountain in the western dining room.  It was fabulously over the top – one of those moments that you sometimes see in movies about New York and think, “There aren’t really parties like that in New York.”  Only Tuesday night there was!

The event, as always, was one of the best food industry events of the year—almost comically packed with both top chefs and, owing to the magazine’s relationship with the show, Top Chefs (i.e., past cheftestants and winners from the Bravo TV production).

As I say, the BNC class of 2010 was announced earlier in the day Tuesday.  The inductees were:

Roy Choi, Kogi BBQ truck, Los Angeles, California
Matt Lightner, Castagna, Portland, Oregon
Clayton Miller, Trummer's on Main, Clifton, Virginia
Missy Robbins,A Voce, New York, New York
Jonathon Sawyer, The Greenhouse Tavern, Cleveland, Ohio
Alex Seidel, Fruition, Denver, Colorado
Mike Sheerin, Blackbird, Chicago, Illinois
John Shields, Town House, Chilhowie, Virginia
Jason Stratton, Spinasse, Seattle, Washington
James Syhabout, Commis, Oakland, California

 

Christina Grdovic, Dana Cowin, and Gail Simmons, flanked by the BNC Class of 2010

(photo copyright by Sylvain Gaboury, FOOD & WINE Magazine)

The whole scene--peppered as it was with bloggers (many armed with digital still and video cameras) and tv stars (Sarah Jessica Parker plus food-world tv celebs such as Tom Colicchio and Kelly Choi)--got me to thinking about how much things have changed in toque-land over the past few decades, and made me want to take a moment here to reflect on Best New Chefs’ place in the relatively young history of the modern American restaurant chef as we understand that term today.  Because amidst all the glam and glitter Tuesday night, one might easily forget how very significant the awards were when they were first rolled out a little more than two decades ago.

I recently interviewed Jonathan Waxman of New York City’s Barbuto restaurant.  Jonathan started out at Chez Panisse back in the 1970s, then rose to prominence at Michael’s in Los Angeles, and then JAMS in New York City.  We were discussing the formative days of modern American restaurant food in general, and the California school in particular.  When I asked who he was following outside of his immediate circle (Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower, Wolfgang Puck) back in the late 1970s and early 1980s, he floored me with his answer:  Almost nobody. 

Bocuse d’Or USA 2010: The Journey to Lyon Starts Now

What We Saw, and Learned, in Hyde Park This Weekend

 

A platter is paraded before the judges at the CIA on February 6, 2010.

(photo copyright Andrew Friedman)

It was a successful weekend for the Bocuse d’Or USA at the Culinary Institute of America.  Team USA was selected; chef demos, panel discussions and book signings were packed; and great food was served.  Herewith, a few observations and reflections on the happenings:

The Bocuse d’Or USA Has Cause for Optimism.  Journalists don’t get to taste the food at the Bocuse d’Or (see below for more on this), but the thing that stands out to me above all else this weekend is how very Bocuse d’Or-appropriate Eleven Madison Park’s James Kent’s food (his meat dish is pictured to the right) looked.  With a year to revise, tweak, hone, and practice for the Main Event in Lyon, I truly believe the US has a shot at the podium with Kent and his commis Tom Allan at the rudder.  Moreover, these guys are personally psyched to make a go of it, and the value of that cannot be overstated. 

Team EMP at the Bocuse d'Or USA:

Commis Tom Allan, EMP General Manager Will Guidara,

Bocuse d'Or USA champ James Kent, and EMP Exec Chef Daniel Humm

(photo copyright Andrew Friedman)
 

Similarly, I was impressed that, on the whole, the candidates’ food looked much more Bocuse-appropriate than did most of the food dished out by candidates at the 2008 Bocuse d’Or USA at Epcot.  Generally speaking, there was more “work” on the individual garnishes and they were scaled down and executed with more finesse.  (Flip side: a number of judges told me that some of the dishes didn’t taste as good as they looked.) There’s also clearly a growing pool of talent interested in investing the time and energy it takes to pursue this culinary holy grail: with chef-candidates on hand who work or have worked at 11 Madison Park, The Modern, Charlie Trotter’s, and Daniel, plus a number of candidates who had competed in either the Bocuse d’Or USA or American Culinary Federation events in the past, it was a good showing.  It was also nice to see past competitors such as Hung Hyung and Kevin Sbraga in the house to lend their support. 

Setting the Event at the Culinary Institute was a Brilliant Decision.  The Bocuse d’Or USA 2008—the first time the event was under the auspices of Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse—was held at Epcot Center in Orlando, Florida.  It was well attended and a helluva lot of fun (e.g., Chef’s Beach Barbecue on Friday night), but there were no national journalists in attendance, other than yours truly, there to write my book, and Food & Wine’s Dana Cowin, who was on hand to present awards, not report on the happenings.  This year’s CIA Hyde Park location, just 2 hours north of New York City, made it easy for the likes of Mimi Sheraton and (from Boston) Corby Kummer to be on hand.   The location likely also inspired more than a few future candidates from the student body, many of whom were getting their first look at a competition on this scale.  Perhaps a New York City location would have attracted more “civilians” and even more media, but it felt right that it be at the CIA—a spectacular facility with all the necessary kitchens and talent on hand to pull off the weekend with considerable aplomb.

Profile of Bocuse d'Or USA Winner James Kent

In case you missed it the first time, here's the profile of James Kent, who will represent the United States at the Bocuse d'Or in Lyon next year, that Toqueland ran recently as part of its "Meet the Finalist" series.

I'll be back later with extensive notes on the action in Hyde Park yesterday.

Bocuse d'Or USA 2010 Winner Announced!

James Kent of 11 Madison Park to Represent United States at Bocuse d'Or 2011

 
Lyon Bound: Eleven Madison Park's James Kent

(photo courtesy James Kent)

Hi, all,

I'm just back from the long drive home to Brooklyn from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park where I attended the competition to select the next American team for the Bocuse d'Or.  I'll have much, much more to say about the day's events, but congratulations to James Kent, a sous chef at 11 Madison Park in New York City, for winning gold at the Bocuse d'Or USA today.  He and his commis, Tom Allan (who just returned to EMP as a sous chef himself) will compete for the United States in Lyon next January. 

Congratulations also to Luke Bergman of The Modern in New York City, who nabbed the silver (second place) and to Christopher Parsons of Catch Restaurant in Winchester, Massachusetts, who took the bronze.  The full text of the Bocuse d'Or USA press release follows.  I'll follow up with a more detailed post shortly.  G'night.

- Andrew

PS  For profiles of all 12 candidates who competed today (technically, yesterday, Saturday, February 6), click here.

The Official Press Release from the Bocuse d'Or USA:

THE BOCUSE D'OR USA FOUNDATION SELECTS TEAM USA 2011

Chef James Kent Will Represent The United States at The Bocuse d'Or International Culinary Competition

New York, NY (February 6, 2010) -- The Bocuse d'Or USA Foundation, a non-profit organization committed to inspiring culinary excellence, announced this evening that Chef James Kent will represent the United States at the prestigious Bocuse d'Or International Culinary Competition, to be held in Lyon, France on January 25-26, 2011. His commis (assistant) in the competition will be Tom Allan. Established in 1987 by Chef Paul Bocuse, the Bocuse d'Or is the preeminent international culinary competition in which teams of one chef and one commis from 24 countries compete for top honors and international acclaim.  Currently, Chef Kent serves as Sous Chef at Eleven Madison Park in New York City and his commis is a Sous Chef at Eleven Madison Park as well.

On Saturday, February 6, 2010, twelve finalist teams (one chef plus one commis) competed in the U.S. Finals Competition which was held at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Each team created two elaborate culinary presentations before a live audience and a prestigious panel of chef judges chosen from The Bocuse d'Or USA Foundation's esteemed Culinary Council. Judges for the competition included The Foundation's Board of Directors - Chef Daniel Boulud, Chef Thomas Keller and Jerome Bocuse - as well as Chefs Grant Achatz, Paul Bartolotta, Timothy Hollingsworth, Traci Des Jardins, Paul Liebrandt, Walter Manzke, Daniel Patterson, Georges Perrier, Alain Sailhac, André Soltner, Susan Spicer, Laurent Tourondel, Alan Wong and Eric Ziebold. The winning team was announced at an Awards Dinner at The Culinary Institute of America on Saturday, February 6, 2010.

Daniel Boulud, The Bocuse d'Or USA Foundation Chairman noted, “Thomas, Jerome and I and the entire Culinary Council are so happy to have selected Chef Kent to represent the United States at the international competition. We truly believe this talented candidate is committed to culinary excellence and exemplifies American gastronomy as we saw today during the competition. Chef Kent shows a great deal of courage, passion and command of his craft, and we look forward to training him throughout the coming year in preparation for Lyon in 2011.”

Each of the 12 finalist teams were required to prepare two individually plated protein platters in just five-and-a-half hours. One presentation featured Scottish Salmon and the other featured American Lamb, and each was accompanied by three elaborate garnishes. Scores were based on a 60-point system. 40 points were dedicated to taste and 20 points accounted for presentation.

Chef Kent's Scottish “Label Rouge” Salmon Pavé with Leeks, Osetra Cavier and Sauce Fumet Blanc was elegantly garnished with the following: Roulade with Alaskan King Crab, Relish of Cucumber and Meyer Lemon; Chilled Mousse with Tartare and Roe; Pickled Heirloom Beets with Crème Fraiche, Dill and Black Pepper. The fish was provided by Scottish Quality Salmon.

For his lamb platter, Chef Kent presented Elysian Fields Farm Spring Lamb: Bacon Wrapped Saddle with Piquillo Peppers and Provençale Herbes; Vol-Au-Vent of Braised Gigot with Sweetbreads and Preserved Lemon; Zucchini with Lynnhaven Chèvre Frais and Mint; Tart of Tomato Confit with Basil, Niçoise Olives and Fromage Blanc. The lamb was provided by The American Lamb Board.

“Competing in the finals has been a great experience and we feel incredibly lucky to be involved,” said Chef James Kent, winner of The Bocuse d'Or USA competition. “This is just the first step toward Lyon. We know we have a lot of hard work ahead of us, but we are ready for this challenge with the support of The Foundation behind us.”

In addition to earning the honor of representing the United States at the Bocuse d'Or International Culinary Competition in 2011, Chef Kent was also awarded a $5,000 cash prize. In second place, Chef Luke Bergman, Sous Chef at The Modern in New York City, was awarded a trophy and a $4,000 cash prize. In third place, Chef Christopher Parsons, Executive Chef/Owner of Catch in Winchester, MA, was awarded a trophy and a $3,000 cash prize. The following awards were also presented at the Awards Dinner:

ο    BEST COMMIS presented by Rougié Foie Gras: Marcella Ogrodnik (Student, The Culinary Institute of America)
ο    BEST FISH presented by All-Clad Metalcrafters: Jennifer Petrusky (Sous Chef, Charlie Trotter's, Chicago, IL)
ο    BEST MEAT presented by All-Clad Metalcrafters: Percy Whatley (Executive Chef, The Ahwahnee, Yosemite, CA)

The Bocuse d'Or USA Foundation will work with Chef Kent and his commis Tom Allan to customize a yearlong training program crafted, executed and supervised by The Foundation's esteemed Board of Directors and Culinary Council. In addition, all direct expenses associated with participation in the international competition are provided by The Foundation. This includes round trip air travel to Lyon, meals and accommodations for 15 days in France, registration fees, on-site acclimation training, competition ingredients and presentation platters. The Foundation is also dedicated to making the careers of serious young chefs more meaningful and successful by offering them educational scholarships, grants, internships and access to a Culinary Council of established professionals.

To have been eligible to compete, Chef Applicants must be American citizens and 23 years of age or older at the time of the final competition in Lyon on January 25, 2011. They must also have had at least three years of experience in a fine dining establishment.

The Commis Applicants must be American citizens and 22 years of age or younger at the time of the final competition in Lyon.

In addition, hopefuls were required to complete an extensive application process which included an essay detailing their desire to represent the United States in the prestigious international competition, two letters of recommendation from chefs and/or restaurateurs, a letter of intent from a culinary sponsor and a current dinner menu from the restaurant at which the Chef Applicant is currently employed. These 12 finalists were selected for their outstanding motivation, commitment to the culinary arts, demonstrated organization and high-profile references supporting their candidacy.

The full list of competitors at The Bocuse d'Or USA Finals Competition 2010 included:

Luke Bergman, The Modern, Sous Chef (New York, NY)
Commis: Joseph Piccione, The Culinary Institute of America, Student

Jim Burke, James, Executive Chef/Owner (Philadelphia, PA)
Commis: Simon Solis-Cohen, The Culinary Institute of America, Student

Danny Cerqueda, Carolina Country Club, Executive Sous Chef (Raleigh, NC)
Commis: Wayne Goode, Caroline Country Club, Prep Cook

Michael Clauss, The Daily Planet, Executive Chef (Burlington, VT)
Commis: Marcella Ogrodnik, The Culinary Institute of America, Student

James Kent, Eleven Madison Park, Sous Chef (New York, NY)
Commis: Tom Allan, Eleven Madison Park, Sous Chef

Mark Liberman, Consulting Chef (San Francisco, CA)
Commis: Leland Cummings, The Culinary Institute of America, Student

Christopher Parsons, Catch, Executive Chef/Owner (Winchester, MA)
Commis: Nathaniel French, Catch, Garde Manger

Jennifer Petrusky, Charlie Trotter's, Sous Chef (Chicago, IL)
Commis: James Caputo, Charlie Trotter's, Cook

John Rellah, NY Yacht Club, Executive Chef (New York, NY)
Commis: Alexander Flynn, The French Culinary Institute, Student

Jeremie Tomczak, French Culinary Institute, Executive Chef - Event Operations (New York, NY)
Commis: Cameron Slaugh, Park Avenue Seasonal, Sous Chef

Andrew Weiss, The Lakes Club at Lake Las Vegas, Executive Chef (Las Vegas, NV)
Commis: Fernando Salazar, The Lobby Bar and Café at Encore, Cook

Percy Whatley, The Ahwahnee, Executive Chef (Yosemite, CA)
Commis: Melissa Marshall, The Culinary Institute of America, Extern

Sponsors of The Bocuse d'Or USA Foundation include American Express, All-Clad Metalcrafters, Manitowoc, Tiffany & Co., Continental Airlines, Rougié Foie Gras, The American Lamb Board and Scottish Quality Lamb.  For more information on becoming a sponsor or for additional details regarding upcoming fundraising events throughout the country, please visit www.bocusedorusa.org.

# # #

Bocuse d'Or USA 2010: Groundhog Day Edition

Day 1 Musings from the Culinary Institute of America

 

A Certain "I Don't Know What" Permeated the Day

I arrived in Hyde Park, New York, shortly before 10am today, to check out all the activities scheudled for the Bocuse d'Or USA "prep day" (more on that in a moment) at the Culinary Institute of America.

It was quite a scene: thoughout the late morning and early afternoon, a steady stream of chefs arrived to participate in the weekend's panels and judging.  It was a formidable group:  Daniel Humm, Paul Liebrandt, Laurent Tourondel, David Chang, Grant Achatz, Traci des Jardin, Timothy Hollingsworth, Gavin Kaysen, Paul Bartolotta, Charlie Trotter, Susan Spicer, Alan Wong, Alain Sailhac, Andre Soltner, Georges Perrier, and - of course - the Bocuse d'Or USA triumverate of Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller, and Jerome Bocuse.

The sudents here are beyond excited, bouncing up and down the halls and saying things like, "This is the best weekend ever." And who can blame them?  Their heroes are walking among them, only too happy to sign their toques and chef coats, and to pose for pictures.  A highlight of the afternoon was a panel on the topic of Crafting Your Culinary Career featuring many of the above-named chefs and moderated by Culinary Institute of America president, Tim Ryan.  These kinds of panels can quickly devolve into a lot of hot air and platitudes, but today's was chock full of bona fide wisdom.  (My favorite line:  On the topic of firing employees, Paul Liberandt said, "I've never fired anybody.  They fire themselves."  So true.)

Although the setting was considerably more frigid than it was at the last Bocuse d'Or USA, held in September 2008 in Orlando, Florida, there was a sense of deja vu for those of us who were there last time.  So many of the same players, the same emotions in the air, the coming competition and gala awards dinner Saturday night.  I discussed this at length with a few returning candidates. Was it really a full year and a half ago that we all saw each other in Epcot?  To us, it felt like only yesterday.

When I got back to the house where I'm staying and turned on the television, I was treated to a moment of cosmic pefection: the ultimate deja vu movie (and one of my personal faves), Groundhog Day, was playing on Bravo. As I type this, I'm watching Bill Murray better himself in pursuit of Andie MacDowell.

There will be plenty of deja vu to go around tomorrow as well: the competitors will be cooking for the second day in a row, because the organizers have made a change to the competition structure this year.  Rather than cooking for 5 1/2 hours straight, as the American team will have to do in Lyon next January, they did about four hours of cooking today, with no audience in attendance, then stashed their food until tomorrow, when they will execute the final hours of their routine and present their platters.

I spoke to a number of people about the potential pros and cons of this adjustment today. (Best line:  A returning candidate told me the dip in pressure compared to last time was so great that "I felt like I was cheating.")  But I'll save up the observations until after Saturday plays out so I can put them in proper context. 

I'll be back Sunday or Monday with a wrap up of the entire weekend.  Until then, if you'd like to keep up with the action, I'll be tweeting all day Saturday squeezing in as much description as I can. 

Signing off for now.  Appropriately enough, Bravo has Groundhog Day on an endless loop.  It just started playing from the beginning at midnight. And I have to get up early in the morning and drive to Hyde Park, same as I did today.  It's deja vu, all over again.

- Andrew

PS  For profiles of all 12 candidates, click here.

Bocuse d’Or USA: Meet the Finalists!

Profiles of All 12 Candidates Who Will Be Competing in Hyde Park This Weekend!

 
His American cousin gets handed out this Saturday night!

This weekend at the Bocuse d’Or USA finals, twelve two-person teams will cook their hearts out at the Culinary Institute of America, and the winner will go on to represent the United States at the Bocuse d’Or in Lyon in January 2011.

One of the most enjoyable parts of writing my book on the Bocuse d’Or, Knives at Dawn, was meeting and profiling all the candidates who competed at the Bocuse d’Or USA at Epcot in 2008.

Well, I’m not writing a sequel (at least not beyond the assembled content on this site!), but I figured – what the hey? – why not profile all 12 candidates who will be competing this time?

I’ve been posting profiles of the candidates as I’ve been able to get them done over the past few weeks, and just this morning posted the last of the bunch.  It seemed only fitting to gather links to all of them on one tidy page.   So… here you go… your 2010 Bocuse d’Or USA finalists:

CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE CANDIDATES PAGE

Reminder:  I’ll be live Tweeting from on-site at the Bocuse d’Or USA this Saturday.  To follow me, click on the “t” icon in the rand-hand column of this page.

Also, I’ll be signing copies of Knives at Dawn from 10am to 10:45am Friday in the Student Recreation Center at the Culinary Institute of America, and from 12pm to 12:45pm on Saturday in the Danny Kaye Theater.

Saturday afternoon, I’ll also be co-hosting (with Heather Sperling) a Chef's Round Table called "Sustaining Excellence" and featuring, Paul Bartolotta, David Chang, Susan Spicer, Timothy Hollingsworth, Gabriel Kreuther, Alan Wong, Gavin Kaysen, Georges Perrier, Daniel Patterson, and Eric Ziebold.

For information about attending the Bocuse d’Or USA, including travel tips and a full schedule of events, click here.  It’s going to be a fun day Saturday…

- Andrew

Bocuse d’Or USA 2010: “I Like Being Under the Fire”

Michael Clauss Has Followed His Own Star... Right to Hyde Park

[With this article, Toqueland has completed its goal of profiling all 12 finalists who will be competing in the Bocuse d'Or USA at Hyde Park this weekend.  For profiles of the other candidates, click here. Best of luck to all the candidates!]

 

Michael Clauss, in the Lounge at Restaurant Daniel

(photo courtesy Michael Clauss)

One of the more intriguing aspects of the Bocuse d'Or is the tension between what a chef candidate wants to cook and what he or she has to cook.  Most seasoned observers of the competition will tell you that if you don't cook from the heart, the final dishes will be diminished; the insincerity will register in the eyes and on the taste buds of the judges.  This creates a unique tension for non-European candidates because food etched in a classic French/European style tends to win at the Bocuse d'Or.

After interviewing Michael Clauss, chef of The Daily Planet in Burlington, Vermont, recently, I was struck by how naturally he seemed to fit into this matrix--the chef has a deep background in French cuisine, and has followed his instintcts (and as you are about to learn, his heart) to his current places or residency and employment. I'll be interested to see how that all adds up on his platters this Saturday.

Clauss was born in Ridgewood, New Jersey, but his family moved to Vermont when he was three.  They lived on a converted dairy farm where they engaged in all kinds of enviable culinary activities, such as cooking freshly killed deer over a woodburning stove or making fresh pasta (his mother was the daughter of Sicilians) every Sunday.

Clauss himself began cooking in high school, then attended the Culinary Institute of America, graduating in 1995.  He externed at the Equinox Hotel in Manchester, Vermont, which led to working in Chantecleer, a small restaurant in East Dorset, Vermont, owned by a Swiss chef of French descent, where he got a crash course in classic, often rustic, cooking:  chateaubriand, frog’s legs, Dover sole, and so on.  There were only about eight entrees on the menu, supplemented by six or seven specials a day, which Clauss says was satisfying from a creative standpoint. He ended up staying there for 9 years. 

From there, Clauss moved around a bit:  a stint as sous chef and banquet chef at Tribeca Grill; two years as an instructor at the New England Culinary Institute in Northern Vermont; and then an extended stay in post-Katrina New Orleans, cooking for volunteers.  

Bocuse d’Or USA 2010: The Hard Way

Mark Liberman On Going it Alone

[Between now and the Bocuse d’Or USA finals this Saturday, February 6, Toqueland will profile as many of the finalists as possible. For profiles of the other candidates, click here.]

 
 Mark Liberman

Last fall, Mark Liberman was convinced to apply for the Bocuse d’Or USA by Roland Passot of San Francisco’s La Folie, a member of the Bocuse d’Or USA Culinary Council and former Liberman employer, who called him on a weekly basis to sell him on the value of entering this contest.

“At first I wasn’t that interested,” recalls Liberman.  “I’d never competed before.”  But as Passot wore him down, Liberman began to think that the competition would be “a good opportunity, a good challenge.” 

Liberman is a San Francisco native who was raised in Marin and Sonoma counties.  He started his professional kitchen life at 15, as a dishwasher and prep cook, then attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, moving on to stages at Daniel and Aureole after graduation. 

From there, he went on to apprentice with Passot at La Folie.  After paying off his college debts, Passot set him up with a stage in Paris—at the Michelin two-star Le Carre des Feuillants —and from there gigs in Burgundy, Nice, and Lyon.  It was great experience, but came at a price—he wasn’t compensated for his labor (the things young cooks do in their quest for knowledge) and ran out of money, so came home.

Liberman worked for a time at Charles Knob Hill, then rejoined the Dinex Group (Daniel Boulud’s company), as saucier at DB Brasserie in the Wynn Hotel, which in turn led to an 18-month job as chef de partie at Robouchon at the MGM Grand. Craving a non-French change of pace, he then worked at Valentino, also in Vegas.

Then Liberman made his move: an opportunity came up to be the executive chef of a new restaurant in Palm Beach.  He’d never seen himself in Palm Beach, but it was an opportunity to work with his brother, a beverage/wine director and mixologist.  He became the opening chef of Forte, and the early reviews were positive.  But when the economy tanked and the restaurant shifted gears, he pushed off.

Liberman’s road to the Bocuse d’Or has been strewn with landmines, but he seems to have survived them all, beginning with his application getting lost in the mail, requiring him to fill out all the paperwork a second time, which was no small task.

Bocuse d’Or USA 2010: Stepping Up

Jennifer Petrusky, a Commis at the 2008 Bocuse d’Or USA, Returns as a Chef Candidate

[Between now and the Bocuse d’Or USA finals this Saturday, February 6, Toqueland will profile as many of the finalists as possible. For profiles of the other candidates, click here.]

Jennifer Petrusky

(photo courtesy Charlie Trotter's) 

Jennifer Petrusky will be making a return to Bocuse d’Or action this weekend.  Petrusky, who was commis to chef candidate Michael Rotondo, of Restaurant Charlie in Las Vegas, at the 2008 Bocuse d’Or USA, will be competing this year as a candidate, with James Caputo, a cook from Charlie Trotter’s, in the role of commis. 

Rotondo and Petrusky placed third in the 2008 event, nabbing the bronze medal, and Rotondo was also awarded a sort-of "most likely to succeed" prize, identifying him as a potential future Bocuse d'Or USA candidate.  At the time, I was working on my book Knives at Dawn, and was able to watch the teams from a judge’s-eye perspective—standing right in the competition kitchen windows.  Petrusky was a rock solid commis, an impression that I know many judges shared, so it will be interesting to see how she fares in the hot seat.